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Build a Simple 12v to 9v converter
![Build]()
This little schema uses a LM317 variable voltage regulator to adjust the input voltage down to +9 volt, or whatever else you need. Just a solid basic schema without bells and whistles.
You can do with a 10uF capacitor for C1 if your battery is close to this schema. If it is located more than 3 feet increase the value to 100uF or above. Without a coolrib it can easily handle 500mA. If you need more, or the maximum current (1.5A), then a good coolrib is required.
Trimmer potent meter R3 will vary the output voltage. Ceramic capacitor C2 improves frequency/transient response. Can be omitted if not needed for your application. If you want extra protection in case the adjust pin is short schemaed, add an extra 1N4001 diode over the input and the output. Cathode to input. But normally only used if the output is way over 25V.
R1 and R3 determine the output voltage. You can adapt them for your own needs and applications.
Use the following formula: (((R1+R3)/R2)+1)*1.25=V-out which comes to: (((560+1000)/220)+1)*1.25 = 10.11V (assuming V-in is 12V).
Or vice-versa: ((V-out/1.25)-1)*R2=R1+R3 which comes to: ((9/1.25)-1)*220=1364. For 1364, you can make R1=560 and R3=1K, which will give plenty of play.
Build a Simple 12v to 9v converter
This little schema uses a LM317 variable voltage regulator to adjust the input voltage down to +9 volt, or whatever else you need. Just a solid basic schema without bells and whistles.
You can do with a 10uF capacitor for C1 if your battery is close to this schema. If it is located more than 3 feet increase the value to 100uF or above. Without a coolrib it can easily handle 500mA. If you need more, or the maximum current (1.5A), then a good coolrib is required.
Trimmer potent meter R3 will vary the output voltage. Ceramic capacitor C2 improves frequency/transient response. Can be omitted if not needed for your application. If you want extra protection in case the adjust pin is short schemaed, add an extra 1N4001 diode over the input and the output. Cathode to input. But normally only used if the output is way over 25V.
R1 and R3 determine the output voltage. You can adapt them for your own needs and applications.
Use the following formula: (((R1+R3)/R2)+1)*1.25=V-out which comes to: (((560+1000)/220)+1)*1.25 = 10.11V (assuming V-in is 12V).
Or vice-versa: ((V-out/1.25)-1)*R2=R1+R3 which comes to: ((9/1.25)-1)*220=1364. For 1364, you can make R1=560 and R3=1K, which will give plenty of play.
After dozens of emails I have included the above schema. The parts with the red X are added and act to boost the amperage. The NTE393 transistor can handle 25A with a sufficient cool rib.
Other power transistors, such as the TIP2955, or similar can be used also. The power transistor is used to boost the extra needed current above the maximum allowable current provided via the regulator. Current up to 1500mA(1.5A) will flow through the regulator, anything above that makes the regulator conduct and adding the extra needed current to the output load.
It is no problem stacking power transistors for even more current. Both regulator and power transistor must be mounted on an adequate heatsink, and if you intend to use lots of amps a fan would be nice too.
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